Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
